Posted on 03 May 2017

Barry Crannock gets a guided tour of Bangkok's hidden gems – and discovers a city quite unlike the tourist brochures.

A journalist friend of mine has been working out of Bangkok for five years now, a period throughout which I have promised – and failed – to visit him. Well, after half a decade I finally made it to the vast Thai capital, keen to be shown a secret Bangkok that most visitors never get to see.

Having checked into a guest house a few streets from the famed backpacker mecca of Khao San Road, my friend arrived in a multi-coloured tuk-tuk. It was clear that he frowned upon this area.

"You gotta get out of Khao San," he said, as we hurtled through the dry heat of Banglumpu, our driver weaving through the traffic and taking corners with the gusto and skill of Lewis Hamilton – kind of.

Soul Food Mahanakorn

First up was lunch at Soul Food Mahanakorn, a trendy eatery in Sukhumvit. I sampled the Pad Thai with fresh softshell crab, washed down with a small Chang. My friend regaled me with stories of his life and work in Bangkok as he tucked in to a Tiger Prawn Satay. I had felt a little groggy from the flight from London, but seeing my old friend again energised me, that – along with the dazzling Thai sunshine shimmering off the traffic outside, all the exotic faces around me and the spicy food. I felt ready for the Bangkok odyssey that lay ahead.

Surfing in Sukhumvit

My friend had always been a sporty type, so I shouldn't have been surprised when he took me to Flow House, also in Sukhumvit. This establishment operates a huge surf machine, enabling city slickers and visitors alike to enjoy a spot of surfing in one of the world's biggest settlements.

We were placed a group and each took turns trying to balance ourselves on the wave machine. An instructor would grasp a rope attached to the surfboard, thereby providing some stability as we got our balance. One false move ... and we found ourselves propelled backwards against the bouncy blue rear walls. After the initial fear had passed, I soon began to enjoy it.

After this exertion I retired to my guest house for an early night, in an attempt to rid myself of my remaining jetlag.

Ko Kret

The next day my friend took me to Ko Kret, a sleepy little river island just to the north of the Old City. We arrived by boat, naturally, and then rented one of the numerous old bikes on the island. Our circular route took us past banana plantations and a bustling food market. Unlike the middle of Bangkok – whose inhabitants can appear as disdainful as any in London or Paris – Ko Kret seemed to be peopled with laid-back, friendly Thais – of the sort that the nation is famed for.

Smalls bar

In the evening we visited Smalls, a low-key, red-lit drinking hole bereft of the ego found in more salubrious establishments. We later settled into the outdoor seating of the third floor, which has a New Orleans vibe and a wide choice of absinthe. My friend introduced me to some of the people he'd got to know over the past years – an affable group of ex-pats and ambitious metropolitan Thais. The night went on for a long time, ending in a tuk-tuk ride to a nightclub and a lot of disjointed recollections.

Muay Thai Hangover Cure

Feeling the effects of the previous evening, the last thing I needed was to be taken for a spar at a Muay Thai boxing club – but that's where my hangover-proof friend brought me. This simple outdoor gym was staffed by chummy Thais who were only too pleased to show me the ropes – quite literally. After a few goes at jumping ropes and trying out punches, it was time to spar. It was an unexpectedly one-way affair: the trainer padded himself from head to toe and allowed me to practice my – admittedly feeble – Muay Thai punches on him. It was quite an experience and for just 800 baht (£18), well worth it.

It was also a fantastic hangover cure.

Waon Piano & Scotch Acoustic Karaoke Bar

On the final night before my friend returned to work, we visited the Waon Piano & Scotch Acoustic Karaoke Bar in Sukhumvit. Not at all easy to find, this establishment was set up by a Japanese man with a rare love for acoustic karaoke. We tried a few Rolling Stones songs as the old gent backed us with his piano, chain smoking between sips of premium Scotch.

It was another wild night in the heart of Bangkok and the end of a perfect few days in this most unique of capitals. Now I would explore the rest of Thailand under my own steam – but I wondered if I would find the kind of underground gems that my friend had shown me over the preceding days. I felt duty bound to try.

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