Wine-Tasting in the Dordogne: Could I Convert My Ale-Loving Hubbie?
My husband Brian adores the Dordogne countryside, with its undulating green valleys and luscious vines, lavender fields and bountiful fruit trees. He also loves the region's food: the duck and the goose, the fois gras and the truffles – and of course the delicious cheese.
But there is one aspect of French produce that has failed to win him over: the wine.
Brian hadn't drunk wine for more than five years – he was just too into his ales, which he regards as a wine-equal. I beg to differ on this point.
I was determined to get him to try wine again – but this time he would try the very best.
I had suggested a wine tour on our last trip to the Dordogne, but Brian said it wasn't worth the money. Well, I thought, if I book it and pay for it without asking him, he has to go, otherwise it really would be a waste, wouldn't it?
The Trap is Sprung
The night before the tour, I sprung the leaflet on him in our little gîte in Bergerac. After an expression of annoyance rippled across his face, and a few grumbles about a cycle-trip he had planned for the morning, he gave in. After all, I said, paid in cash – no refunds.
A Frenchman called Charlie picked us up in a comfortable space wagon. Charlie was most charismatic and spoke very good English – but without losing his lovely French accent. He said he had worked for a French investment bank in London in the ‘80s, but the lifestyle hadn't suited him. He exclaimed: you only eat fried food in England!
And so it was his stomach – along with his love of the Dordogne countryside – that compelled him to return home.
Delightful Dordogne
After picking up a Belgian couple and two old ladies from Germany, we drove on, gently rising and falling through the lush greenery of the surrounding countryside, where the perfectly aligned vines dipped into tree-filled valleys, then arced out again into the mid-morning sunshine.
We pulled up to a wonderful old château and were introduced to its owner, before being led into his ripening vineyards. Brian loved the views, but grumbled now and then about the forthcoming wine-tasting session. And so soon we returned to the Château and were each given a red to sample.
Wine-Tasting Tips
Charlie gave everyone a few pointers on how to taste wine: take a long look at your wine, swirl it, then move it closer to your nose. What's your first impression? Then it was time to taste. Brian grimaced as he was told to detect salty, savoury, sour, bitter and sweet. Then Charlie told us to draw air into our mouths and breathe out through our noses in order to ‘liberate' the aroma of the wine. We did so. Then it was time to slurp, which Brian did with a little too much volume for my liking – a noise of protest, no doubt.
As we strolled back to the space wagon Charlie told us to focus on the after-taste. I don't know if it was fruity, herby, spicy or flowery, but it really was a superb tipple!
A Rustic Lunch
Next, Charlie took us to his own home, where he and his wife Jean laid on a mouth-watering and very rustic lunch in their garden. We enjoyed picturesque views of the Dordogne as we sat under a large crab apple tree, sunlight dappling the tablecloth. Crusty baguettes and cheese were served, along with a selection of delicious cold meats, followed by fresh fruit.
To top off a rather perfect moment, I was astonished to see Brian with a glass of red in his hand: he said he would make an exception because red went so well with cheese! What a silly grin he had on his face.
The whole group was a little lethargic after that superb feed, but perked up after some strong French coffee.
Plums and Cheese
Soon we were back in the space wagon, heading to two local food producers – a cheesemaker and a plum grower. Both were fantastic, not least because they gave us plenty of free samples.
In the Co-op
Afterwards we travelled to a local co-operative, where even more local delicacies were available – although most of it was local wine. We got to taste some and I couldn't help pick a case up – it was so good and such great value – and I didn't feel pressured to make a purchase at all.
So there I was at the till when I heard Brian behind me in the queue say something disparaging about my favourite tipple, only to turn around and see him carrying another case of local red, his cheeks flushed and a big grin on his face!
The only slight drawback resulting from our trip was that I had to share each and every bottle of wine with my husband!