Posted on Monday, 31 July 2017

Cheryl Forsythe explores Serbia's wild eastern tracts, taking in the bucolic Zlatibor Mountains and the truly wild Tara National Park.

The green mountains suffused into a bluish haze as I gazed into the distance. It could have been the South Downs or the Brecon Beacons – but it was the Zlatibor Mountains, one of Serbia's best-kept secrets.

Having hiked for two hours, I gave into temptation and bit down into my burek - a kind of cheese filo pie, ubiquitous across the Balkans. This slightly greasy, salty comestible was just what I needed and seemed to enhance the tremendous views. Strong Serbian coffee (popularised by centuries of Turkish rule), carried in a flask and supplied by the amiable hosts in my Zlatibor guest house, ensured my batteries were restored for the return traipse.

The area is famed – at least among Serbs – for its wonderfully clean air. Serbia's king Aleksandar Obrenović, who made health trips here in the late 1800s, was one if its more high profile proponents.

As well as commonalities with UK national parks, the area had something of the Alpine about it, with chalet-like houses and the Swiss-like, picturesque Zlatibor village.

During winter nearby Tornik offers affordable skiing, but the crowds return in summer for hiking and biking. The resorts chairlifts are re-opened to transport people up and down these pretty green slopes.

Later, after a 25 minute drive, I arrive at Stopića cave, a fantastic limestone wonder complete with other-worldly stalactites jagging down from the vast ceiling.

Afterwards I step back in time by visiting the Staro Selo (Old Village) at Sirogojno. It's a kind of open-air museum, where 19th Century-style buildings transport you back to a time of rustic splendour. I perused the charming timber grain stores and family homes. And of course, some of the buildings used to make rakija, a kind of brandy made from various fruits. You can stay in one of the lodges here for just £18 a night – but the facilities are somewhat basic, in keeping with the village's authentic raison d'etre.

I moved south along a twisting road, enjoying a view of the mighty Gostilje waterfall which plunges over limestone rock. The scenery was green and becalming as I wended my way down through the wooded valleys to the Katusnica River. For about £1 you can access a wonderland of beauty spots and picnic areas, not to mention an outdoor pool.

I drove past the majestic Mokra Gora (Wet Mountain) and espied the Šargan Eight train, a narrow gauge line built in 1925 that loops around the mountains in a figure of eight. The rain broke and afternoon sun flooded the area. I decided to stop for lunch in the town of Mokra Gora before catching the afternoon train. This mighty black steam locomotive enhanced the old-world charm of this zone, as it gave a shrill whistle and began chugging its way down the line, just as similar engines did nearly a century ago.

From this fantastic mode of transport I saw the Drvengrad (mecavnik.info), an amazing wooden town built especially for the 2004 movie Life is a Miracle. It's like an exaggerated version of Sirogojno, complete with working shops and a hotel. Kusturica's January film festival takes place here each year.

After another relaxing night in Zlatibor village, I drove into the wilderness of Tara National Park. The beauty of this park is unknown to most people outside Serbia – a fact that should be remedied at the earliest opportunity. Tara is a wonderland of forests, rivers and lakes, offering an abundance of wildlife, from exotic orange butterflies to birds and insects unique to the Balkans.

Keen to get out and explore, I checked into Mountain Chalets Tara. My comfortable chalet further added to the Alpine feel of this area. But I wasn't interested in creature comforts. I had come to enjoy as much wilderness as Serbia could throw at me. Having acquired several more burek from the local bakery and filling up my flask with more powerful coffee, I set about exploring this most alluring of national parks.

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