Posted on Wednesday, 9 December 2015

With only three nights pencilled in for Vienna's famous Christmas markets, we were tempted by the Ritz-Carlton (or at least, I was) which even had its own Christmas market on the roof – the highest in Vienna, apparently. But the prices were a little steep: "Better spend it on the kids," said Brian. Well, I didn't need any more excuses to go shopping. After all, that's why we came to Vienna!

In the end we settled on the NH Wien Zentrum – a sophisticated-looking four-star establishment, but a lot less costly then the Ritz-Carlton.

Bah, Humbug!

Brian, I have to say, is not a big on Christmas. Or at least that's what he pretends. He starts off all bah-humbug, but eventually he's intoxicated by the lights and colours and music. I'm intoxicated from the very beginning – I simply adore this time of year!

And having been to a number of Christmas markets across Europe, I was terribly excited to see Vienna's. Of course, it's not just one market – but dozens spread across the city. But like most people, perhaps, I had the famous market on Rathausplatz in mind – set in front of the great City Hall, or Rathaus.

NH Wien Zentrum

But my first task after checking into the NH Wien Zentrum, was getting Brian out of it. It wasn't the cold or even the fear of Christmas shopping keeping him in; he simply loved the room. I would have thought our huge, ultra-modern accommodation was a little too ultra-modern for Brian – but he was entirely taken by it. As an ex-builder he was deeply impressed by the quality of the workmanship in the room – and was equally impressed by the bed. However, I admit I was impressed by the bed too – possibly the comfiest I've ever encountered.

Our room even had a Nespresso machine, which Brian delighted in using.

I had almost got Brian out of the hotel when he said he wanted us to drink Nespressos on the terrace. I agreed – only to discover a wintry view of Vienna that would keep my husband spellbound for another twenty minutes as the sky darkened and the lights of the Austrian capital came on. I have to admit though, it was a lovely sight.

At long last we were out in the cold but wonderfully Christmassy streets of Vienna. The nearest metro stop was Neubaugasse, where we boarded a U-Bahn for the Rathausplatz.

Enchanting Rathausplatz

Emerging from the depths of Rathaus station we seemed to float up into a universe of festive lights, music and shoppers. I don't mind the shoppers – I can relate to them – but Brian is not keen on the constant weaving, the sidestepping of shopping bags and children. Still, I could see the Christmassy atmosphere was winning him over. The wonderful details of the old Rathaus were floodlit, with the huge Christmas tree standing guard in front of it. The tree's lights were the colours of the French tricolour, as a mark of respect for the victims of the Paris attacks.

We wandered around and soon noticed that the trees were full of glowing objects; one with red hearts, another with cupcakes, another with violins – and one with bugs! Little details like these were to be found everywhere, creating a truly enchanting atmosphere.

Mulling some Baubles

But Brian still had a few gripes. As we wandered around the many Christmas stalls, he remarked that they were all selling the same thing.

"You can get all this back home," he said, as we gravitated towards a mulled wine stall.

"I've never had mulled wine this good back home," I said, once we had our hands wrapped around the hot mugs of spicy vino.

The festive drink helped combat the Viennese chill as we continued our meanderings.

I spotted the ice rink, but decided not to mention it to Brian – not for now, at least.

Instead I became fixated on buying some baubles for our Christmas tree.

"We have enough already," said Brian.

"But these are glass, Brian, not plastic, and look how pretty they are."

"They'll break in your luggage," said Brian, "and besides, they look the same as the ones we already have."

Brian was getting a little rosy-cheeked.

I suggested some food. We found a stall selling creamy garlic soup (‘knoblauchcreme soupe') served in a cob bread bowl. It was delicious.

"Bit of a silly idea," said Brian, "serving soup in a loaf of bread."

"Well, you don't find this at home."

"Of course you do. All these markets are the same."

But I could see the bah-humbug Brian disappearing – the combination of soup and mulled wine, of lights and happy Christmas shoppers was putting him in the festive mood.

After another visit to a different mulled wine stall, Brian acquiesced to my bauble urges. I would have got some anyway, but better to have him on board because he had space in his carry-on suitcase! I bought a four-set of beautiful frosted glass baubles.

"I think we'll have the best looking tree on the street!"

"Same as everybody else's, dear."

We stopped and gazed at the jolly people weaving across the ice rink in front of the Rathaus.

"Oh how wonderful," I said.

"Same as the Christmas market at Nottingham last year," said Brian.

"It is not, Brian, it's nothing like Nottingham. Oh Brian, let's have a go ourselves," I beamed up at him.

With a Christmassy twinkle in his eye, the steam from his spicy breath wafting up into the galaxy of yuletide lights, he said: "One more mulled wine and we'll give it a go. Look, there's one place over there we haven't tried."

"But Brian, the mulled wine – it's all the same!"

Get a Quote