Posted on Thursday, 18 February 2016

Hill walking enthusiast Laura Mitchell embarks on a journey that more than 100,000 people undertake each year: the religious pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

Legend has it that the remains of the apostle James were brought to Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, for burial. True or not, it is one of the main reasons more than 100,000 people walk the Way of St James each year – fired by either spiritual, religious or historical passions.

If I'm honest, I was in it mainly for the adventure. I love walking in the UK and while I have always loved the mountains and forests of Northern Spain, I had never undertaken a multi-day walk here. What better way to see this amazing area than by joining this popular mass expedition? Although as I would soon find, it wasn't to be the collective experience I expected.

Day 1 Ferrol to Pontedeume 23.7 km (14.7 miles)

After flying in to charming A Coruna on Spain's north-west tip, I took a bus to Ferrol, where my journey would officially begin. Armed with a cellophane covered map from the Tourist Office in Plaza Espana, I set out. I glimpsed the glorious Bay of Biscay often on this route, which started out poorly waymarked, but steadily improved.

Ferrol, Spain (ramonespelt/Bigstock.com)

After a long day, I checked in to the Hotel Eumesa in Pontedeume. While the beds were a little old, the staff were wonderful and told me where I could get some delicious Galician fare. I chose a little eatery in the centre of Pontedueme. However, I wasn't there long. After a rather full day I was keen to get some sleep back at the hotel. Feeling content with my progress, I drifted off to sleep.

Day 2 Pontedeume to Betanzos 22 km (13.6 miles)

This was one of the most serene days. I thoroughly enjoyed the solitude of this stage, inhaling the salty sea air and listening to the cries of the gulls – the same smells and sounds that pilgrims of centuries ago must have experienced!

When I reached Betanzos I met an elderly German woman on the same route as myself. She took me to the Church of San Francisco in the Old Town, served by Franciscan Nuns and friars who were very pilgrim-friendly indeed. We stayed for the wonderful 6.30 pm mass. As I mentioned, I'm not religious, but this service really was atmospheric.

Church of San Francisco, Betanzos, Spain (Jorisvo/Bigstock.com)

I stayed in the comfortable Complejo San Roque in Betanzos and enjoyed another night of deep, contented sleep.

Day 3 Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma - 21km (13 miles)

After my third day of walking, I was glad to check into an albergue called Hospital de Bruma – somewhat cheaper than my previous accommodation choices. An albergue is basically a hostel, so it's very affordable. However, I had to eat from shop-bought supplies, since there was no restaurant or bar at de Bruma. A walker I met briefly the next day told me that Inn Canaima Meson do Vento was an excellent alternative: 22 euros for a good room, with a superb ‘menu of the day' available in the dining room.

Thw Way of St. James (bepsimage/Bigstock.com)

Day 4 Hospital de Bruma to Sigüeiro 21.4 km (13.3 miles)

By the fourth day it was raining steadily. I was glad I brought my poncho with me – a garment that has served me so well on the Peaks. Despite the continued rain, however, my spirits remained high as I marched in to Sigüeiro. Here I found a wonderful bed and breakfast where I was served a mouth-watering evening meal featuring pulpo (octopus) and plenty of red wine. The total bill? Only 30 euros!

Later that night I met a Colombian girl working behind a bar. She thought my pilgrimage was a rather crazy endeavour. As the evening wore on, the story of how she came to be in Sigüeiro emerged. She had moved to Madrid to find work. She met a boy, fell pregnant and moved to Sigüeiro, the boy's home town. However, the father left and so she found herself working hard to support her baby. She seemed a little embarrassed at how easily her story popped out and asked me more about the walk to Compostela. When I had finished, her worrisome face was alight with wonder: "To walk freely...to think...to relax...just to be!"

I think it was one of those 'Compostela moments' that I had read so much about.

Day 5 Sigüeiro to Santiago de Compostela 17 km (10.6 miles)

This was the shortest leg of the walk, although I was certainly feeling tired when I neared my goal, Santiago de Compostela. While the newer parts of the town were a little disappointing, the old town was remarkable. The cathedral itself was a wonder – both outside and in. A superb climax to my journey.

I was surprised by the vibrant nightlife in this rather religious-centric town – in both Zona Vella (Old Town) and the Zone Nova (New Town) there were young and not-so-young people enjoying themselves.

I joined in for a couple of Rioja wines myself. It seemed odd to be in such a hedonistic environment after my long trek across the top of Spain, but it contrasted pleasantly with the relaxing solitude of my recent - and very special - journey.

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