Posted on Friday, 23 October 2015

While Bangkok is undoubtedly an exciting city – boasting hotels, shopping malls and night spots that rival any world city – after a few days one gets the urge for a little peace and quiet.

Luckily, there are many places in Thailand offering a tranquil refuge from the tuk-tuks, taxis and motorbikes of the sprawling Thai capital.

One such place is Koh Samet, a small island about three hours' drive south-east – depending on traffic. And on the day I chose to visit, the traffic was very sluggish. But it was my own fault: I had decided too late in the day to escape the metropolis; if I had left at 7 a.m. I would have spent a lot less time in transit. But at least the taxi driver taught me a little more Thai en-route to the bus station.

Ban Phe to Samet by Boat

I travelled by minivan to the fishing town of Ban Phe (150 baht/£3), arriving just half an hour before the last boats were due to sail – at 5 p.m. I was then directed to the port building and one of many desks selling boat tickets to Koh Samet.

I boarded a rickety wooden boat (120 baht/£2.50) packed with Thais on weekend breaks from Bangkok. A wild-eyed, leather-skinned man told us to put on our life jackets. After a little manoeuvring we nosed out of the port and into the breezy, sun-kissed Gulf of Thailand.

Under an hour later we docked at the island's port and were asked for a 20 baht (40p) ‘port fee' before being allowed into the island's interior.

Boat near Ko Samet, Thailand (Jorg Hackemann/Bigstock.com)

Having been on Koh Samet before, I knew it was only a short 10-15 minute walk to the beach, so I eschewed the offer of a ride on one of the metallic green 'songthaews' – Toyota Hiluxes with seating in the rear for passengers.

I walked along the island's only main road and passed the restaurants and shops I had known on my visit two years before. I reached a guest house called ‘Mama's' where I had stayed for three weeks that long-passed summer, but the laid-back husband of ‘Mama' – an amusing battle-axe of a woman as I recall – didn't seem to recognise me. I guessed that a lot of people pass through his establishment.

7-Eleven x 2

Then I passed by the two 7-Eleven convenience stores that face each other on the main street. That's right, two. Facing each other. At this point I remembered that there are well over 8,000 7-Eleven stores in Thailand – slightly more than in the USA which has nearly five times the population.

Booking Ahead

Knowing it was the weekend I had booked ahead on the Internet. Koh Samet gets very busy on Saturday and Sunday. Having enjoyed my stay at the opulent Berkeley grand in Bangkok, I was looking forward to the four-star beach-side Grand View hotel.

Beach in Koh Samet, Thailand (Jorg Hackemann/Bigstock.com)

Laem Yai Beach

Having paid the 200 baht (£4) fee to enter the conservation beach area (locals pay just 40 baht), I moved down a dark, covered alley where small shops sold the usual assortment of postcards and beach balls, then emerged onto the bright Laem Yai beach. I had forgotten just how incredibly white Koh Samet's beaches are. I kicked off my flip-flops and let my feet sink into the silky sand, which clung to my skin like fluffy snow. Behind the beach, lush green jungle rose to meet the blue sky – jungle that harboured unknown quantities of beasties and creepy-crawlies.

Out on the glittering blue water jet-skis pulled banana boats laden with shrieking Chinese holidaymakers, while speedboats drew waving parasailers high into the air. Thais frolicked and splashed by the water's edge, some almost fully clothed. I recalled that very few Thais can swim, despite the fact they have some of the finest beaches in the world!

The Grand View Hotel

After a short walk I arrived at the Grand View. This ultra-modern structure overlooks the main stretch of Laem Yai and is fronted with a number of decking areas featuring angular, futuristic seating. Ranked out on the sand in front were huge orange bean bags shaded by umbrellas.

I was shown to my plush and suitably contemporary room, which was only let down by some rather rough looking outhouses nearby. At 3,000 baht (£55) one might have expected a little better.

Russian Tour Guide

After freshening up I went down to the beach and sat on one of the orange bean bags before ordering a ridiculous looking cocktail. As far as I could tell around me were mostly Thais, Chinese and Russians – with the odd European thrown in. It has been fascinating to see Thailand's tourist demographics change over the years. A decade ago the country was mostly frequented by Europeans, North Americans and Australians. Today the Thais seek out Chinese travellers as well as their own nouveau riche. The Russians come too, but they have little money now due to soaring inflation at home triggered by falling oil prices and international sanctions.

I struck up a conversation with a Russian tour guide who was looking after a group of Siberian holidaymakers on a weekend trip from Pattaya. She gave me some amusing accounts of her charges – who had successfully escaped a bleak Russian autumn but were nevertheless prolific in their complaints about Koh Samet. At this particular moment they were in the shade of the Grand View's lobby. Apparently it was too hot!

The Famous Ploy Talay Fire Show

We were both aware of the famous Koh Samet fire show which takes place every night (rain permitting) at a popular beachside restaurant called Ploy Talay. I remembered it vividly from two years before. We decided to take the short walk up the beach and grab one of the low-level tables before it got too busy.

After getting ourselves comfy on the pillows we ordered cocktails before watching the sun cast a reddish-pink glow over the beach. Muscular young Thai men practiced on the sand before the big show.

At 8.30pm the performance began. First up was the usual fire-stick twirling. Then came tricks involving fire sticks being cast vertically into the air before being caught – all accomplished with perfect timing and precision. The crowd, mostly Thais, gasped at these feats. But it was to get more impressive.

Three young Thai men, bare-chested and sweat-filmed, began twirling fire sticks with huge sparklers at each end. It was an incredible sight, with tracers cascading outwards, making concentric patterns against the black night. The sea frothed at their heels as their display grew evermore daring.

By now the crowd was getting very excited, with Thai girls screaming in delight at the performers' fiery tricks. But the screams of joy became ones of fear for the people at the front, who were subjected to the sight of a big Thai supporting two slighter men: one of these sat astride the larger one's shoulders while the other's legs were wrapped precariously around his waist, chest thrusting out over the crowd. All three wore menacing, crazy grins, twirling fire sticks with a joyous recklessness. Displaying impressive acrobatic skills and strength, they bore down on the shrieking, cowering spectators, whose faces were just inches from the hot flames.

I couldn't help wondering how many health and safety regulations this event would break were it to take place in the UK! But perilous as it might be, I was once again enjoying Koh Samet a great deal.

Get a Quote