Posted on Tuesday, 29 April 2014

Nong Khai is a sleepy town set by the wide Mekong River, but has enjoyed substantial growth on the back of the buoyant tourism industry across the water in the Laos, focussing primarily on the capital, Vientiane. But aside from the long promenade and the intriguing Sala Keoku statue park, there is not a great deal here – and yet it has a certain something.

I never planned on staying here so long, but the town gets under your skin. And so I found myself here for the world famous Songkran festival, which took place between the 13th and 15th of April, in cities, towns and villages across Thailand.

Religiuos sculpture in Thailand

An Icy Welcome

I wondered how it would compare to the two Songkrans I had been to in Bangkok; those were both intense but very enjoyable experiences, where the friendly Thais get even more friendly – although this additional warmth seems to be expressed by pouring freezing water down your neck!

Songkran Festival, Thailand (chatchai/Bigstock.com)

Given the very high temperatures here at present (up to 40 degrees), it might seem that being soaked with icy water is a pleasant feeling. But it can be quite a surprise – especially if you come across a Thai who has put a great deal of ice in their water tub.

But as well as being attacked by stationary groups of friends and relatives – who set up marquees in Nong Khai's main streets – there were also drive-by attackers.

Hilux High Jinks

The Toyota Hilux is an ever-present vehicle on the streets and roads of Thailand. And until this year's Songkran I thought this particular utility vehicle was popular because you can transport a lot of things and people around in them. However, it became quite clear to me that the Hilux has one key role to play: carrying the family's tub of water around during Songkran, therefore enabling everyone to carry out drive-by splashings.

Celebration of Songkran Festival, Thailand (Marsy/Bigstock.com)

But while all this ice cold water-throwing sounds like it could get out of hand, in reality Thais are very respectful in the way they soak you: they never go for the eyes (a real risk with so many water pistols) and they pour ice-cold water down your neck with a certain Buddhist gentleness. And this is despite all the fervent alcohol consumption.

One wonders if a similar festival in Britain would be so civilised!

Songkran Festival, Thailand (gnomeandi/Bigstock.com)

Songkran in Nong Khai was a very special experience, but a very different one to Bangkok. In this town, there are far fewer tourists, which means the locals are extra-pleased to see you enjoying their traditions.

The party went on into the night – and this sleepy northern town didn't seem so sleepy after all.

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