Christmas in Kaunas, Lithuania's Historic Second City

Posted on Wednesday, 14 December 2016

It's little wonder the people of Kaunas lavish so much love and attention on their Christmas tree each year: with almost a third of the nation covered in them, trees are deeply rooted in the nation's consciousness.

No Ordinary Xmas Tree

But the Kaunas Christmas tree is no ordinary woody plant: every festive season they dream up a new and imaginative alternative to your basic fir.

How about the Frosted Christmas Tree (2010), with space inside for people to stand and listen to bird song?

Or a Knitted Christmas Tree (2013) – made of interwoven plastic bags? A Christmas Tree of Clouds (2014, pictured below) Or last year's selfie-conscious offering, the Smart Christmas Tree, which was decorated in Wi-Fi enabled digital devices?

Birute Vijeikiene/Bigstock.com

But perhaps the most impressive in recent years was the tree made of 40,000 green plastic bottles (2011) – casting its verdant luminescence all around the town square. It set a record for the world's largest tree made of plastic bottles, simultaneously making a statement about recycling – and how we think about our rubbish.

This year's tree is certainly up there with the best: The Carousel Tree – combining a Christmas tree with the classic funfair ride.

A Lithuanian Christmas

The passion and energy the people of Kaunas put into their tree each year is a reflection of the importance of Christmas to Lithuanians in general. Taking precedence over Christmas Day is Christmas Eve (Kūčios) – a time when families gather together and, when the first stars can be seen in the night sky, eat a large meal of up to 12 (usually meat-free) dishes.

Art, Culture and History

But whether you're in Kaunas before, during, or after Christmas, there's plenty to enjoy at this magical time of year. Aside from the beautifully decorated town square (featuring that funfair tree), there's all manner of artistic and cultural events, such as the International Vilnius Painting Triennial, a Japanese art exhibition and if you fancy warming up a little, a tropical butterfly exhibition.

Kaunas Castle

As far as non-Christmassy things go, you can explore the atmospheric Kaunas Castle, the Museum of Lithuanian Aviation, or the IX Fort Museum – telling the story of one of the main defences of Kaunas Fortress, the most intact example of a Russian Empire fortress in the world.

IX Fort Monument (iStock.com/YKD)

For something a little less war-like, check out the charmingly baroque Pažaislis Monastery – the largest monastery in the country.

Hearty, Satisfying Cuisine

And when it comes to meal-times, Lithuanians make some of the most comforting and satisfying winter food anywhere: Sample some “zeppelins” – potato dumplings stuffed with meat or curds and served with various sauces. Potato pie is another speciality, along with koldūnai (similar to Polish pierogi), donuts and crepes.

Fried zeppelins

Wash it all down with a local beer (alus), vodka (degtinė), or kvass – a fermented drink made of rye bread.

If you're looking for a truly immersive Eastern European festive experience this year, Lithuania's vibrant second city is hard to beat.

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